Classic Male Klingon Uniform
Classic Female Klingon Uniform
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Basic Classic - MEN
The most quickest way to be a Klingon. Especially for those who are sewing challenged, and Klingons Love a Challenge, or are working on their
"other" uniform. All you need is:
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A black Cotton/Polyester Turtleneck Long Sleeve Shirt.
On the turtleneck you can wear your circular rank pins.
- A pair of Black Long Slacks A pair of Black Knee High Boots
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A tunic or Silver or Pewter colored shiny fabric.
It has no sleeves, and a square neck. It tucks into the pants at the waist.
- A sash of Gold or Silver Fabric, between 3" & 3 1/2" wide. Tie or overlap at hip.
And now, you are ready to go!
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Basic Classic - FEMALE
The ladies are more of a challenge. There are two basic styles of fusion uniforms; and females may wear either one. The first style consists of six basic
parts...
- Top-gold coloured cloth
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LONG SLEEVE polo neck shirt-Black
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Trousers-Black
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Boots-Black
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Belt-Black
- Rank/Division pins.
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A good thing to get is a black pair of army surplus trousers. If you can’t find the black at your local army/ navy store, use black dye on the
khaki ones. Boots, belt and pins are easy to get. Boots and belt are BLACK. Again look in the Army and Navy, or try horse riding shops for tall rubber
riding boots. On the left side of the polo neck is worn the division pin, on the right side is worn your rank pin. The other style uniform is like
MARA
wore in ST It also consists of six basicparts ... black boots and leotard, shorts (or skirt), belt and pins. Theleotard is best if you can get it long
sleeved and legged, (black stocking,pullover or turtleneck may also be used). The top is a sleeveless X frontpullover. The X should be done in dark
brown. For the shorts, any black oneswill be OK, or a black mini skirt, particularly in shiny PVC would look good.For the boots, belt and pins, see the
uniform above. MAKE UP.....Heavy brown with upswept eyebrows.
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Imperial Male Klingon Uniform
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Basic Padded Vest
Materials
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$ US
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1.50 yards of dark grey vinyl @ $10.00/y
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$15.00
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.50 yards of light grey vinyl @ $10.00/y
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$5.00
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1.25 yards of black poly/cotton fabric @ $5.00/y
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$7.25
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1.25 yards of furry black fabric @ $5.00/y
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$7.25
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Misc. (thread, glue, etc.)
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$5.00
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The vinyl for the padded vest should be the soft flexible kind that is easily folded and sewn on a sewing machine. The black poly/cotton fabric, also
called trigger, is used as the basis for the padded vest, and will have the folded vinyl strips sewn to it to form the finished vest. Another fabric may
be substituted if desired, either for cost or other concerns. If you can come up with another idea for using as a basis for the vest, feel free. (The
fabric used is the same used to make men's dress slacks)
The black foundation vest is basically created using the design of a standard denim vest, or get a T-shirt 1-2 sizes larger than you normally wear and
use that as the pattern . A certain amount of fine tuning will be necessary at this stage to produce a vest which is not too loose, but still is not
overly large, as it will tend to "bunch up" when you tighten the belt at the waist.
The vest is constructed in three parts. The lower front part of the vest, lower back part of the vest(this is where the zipper/snapps or clips will go to
hold it all together. Velcro will not hold it enough, and you will find it keeps opening.), and the shoulder pad which is constructed separately. The
shoulder pad is sewn, or Velcro'd onto the vest after the vinyl strips are applied.
After the black fabric vest is constructed, the vinyl strips are sewn onto it. The vinyl strips are 3 " wide, and are folded over and then sewn
along the edges. This will make it easier to sew the strips to the black fabric later.
For my uniform, I cut the vinyl strips 3" wide. I then marked the underside of each strip with a line, down the center. The strips were then folded
so that the edges of the vinyl lined up with the line that were drawn down the center. The strips were sewn on a sewing machine exactly .25" from each
edge using a matching thread. This resulted in strips approximately 1.5" wide.
The exact number and length of the strips required will depend on the final dimensions of the vest, and some playing around will be necessary in order to
determine the best layout when cutting the vinyl. It is safe to say that you will be using most, if not all, of the 1.5 yards the vinyl material.
Once all the strips have been sewn, it is time to lay them out on the fabric front vest. I found that the easiest thing was to lay the vest flat on a
table, start from the middle and work your way out to the sides.
You may want to lay them out and pin them in place all at once. However, you will be pricked several times if you do this.
Lay out the strips for the front part of the vest, using a pencil between them to maintain an equal spacing all the way around, and marked the location
of the strips with a sliver of soap to avoid having to pin them all in place and wrestle the whole thing through the sewing machine at once. It DOES get
harder, and heavier to handle as the number of strips sewn to the fabric increases, so why make life difficult for the whole process? The strips are then
sewn to the fabric by (carefully) sewing along the same stitching which is holding the fold in the vinyl strips.
The back part has the the same pattern as the front only you cut down the middle of the back for the zipper (this will be hidden by the back bone). So
while your putting the vinyl strips on remember to leave a good 1 inch gap at the middle of the pattern for the zipper.
You then create the arm sleeves from the furry black fabric, and sew it to the vest. Another option is to create a under shirt with the furry fabic
attached. I prefer the first, with a turtle neck underneath.
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Shoulder Pad
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The shoulder pad is constructed the same way, with the strips being laid out starting at the top center, and working out to the front and back. Once the
pieces are completed, the shoulder pad can be sewn to the vest with the help of an extra pair of hands, or sew Velcro to each piece. It is almost
impossible to keep the shoulder pad in place and determine the proper location for it to be sewn to the vest if you have only the standard issue of two
upper appendages at your disposal.
The ends of the strips which have been sewn to the black fabric, are concealed with vinyl strips sewn around the edges. Folded under a sewn again. This
gives the best look and will not come apart.
The center of the rear side of the vest is concealed with the spine cover. The design calls for as many pieces as needed to cover the zipper between the
shoulder pad and the belt. You will have to determine what looks best.
The vinyl ropes that go around the neck, and around the center of the uniform are formed by sewing strips of the vinyl to lengths of vinyl yacht rope, or
cotton rope which are then glued to the vest with crazy glue, or sewn . The vinyl cord frays easily, so when you cut it, you will need to melt the ends
with a match or lighter. Once you have cut the cord to length, cover it, and the vinyl you will cover it with, with contact cement.
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Uniform Pants
Materials
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$ US
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1 pr. jogging grey pants
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9.00
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Misc. (thread, etc.)
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2.00
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Total
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11.00
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Basic Imperial uniform pants can be bought, or easily created by making some simple modifications to a pair of grey jogging pants.
Obtain a pair of jogging pants that are a bit loose as you will be making some small pleats along the front of each leg, and this will make the pants a
bit tighter when you are finished.
Using a straight edge, lay out a straight line along the front of each leg, and sew a small pleat from the top to the bottom of the leg. Then lay out a
second line to the outside of each pleat and sew that as well. Finish each leg by sewing a third and final pleat on the inside of the original pleat.
When completed, you will have have a pair of grey pants with three small pleats down the front of each leg.
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Insulated Undersuit
Materials
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$ US
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1 black sweat shirt
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5.00
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.5 yard black velour fabric
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3.00
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Misc. (thread, etc.)
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A basic insulated undersuit can be constructed by starting with a standard black sweat shirt from which you remove the arms, or create the furry arms and
sew over top. The black velour fabric is folded in half and cut so that you have two equally-sized pieces. Sew these pieces to form two tubes of
fabric. These will form the new arms for the shirt. It is not quite the fur sleeves as used in the TV series and movies, but Lt. Kregaar will atest to
the fact that fur is not a Klingon's best friend when you're attempting to look fierce in a park during a summer fair in 90˚ heat.
Turn everything inside-out and sew the new sleeves to the body of the shirt. At this time it would also be a good idea to finish off the end of the
sleeves so that they do not fray. Don't worry, they will be concealed by your gloves. The looseness of the velour fabric will give you room to breath in
the suit, and it doesn't look half-bad.
If after trying on the shirt, you feel that it could use the addition of shoulder padding, you can attach a pair of shoulder pads to the inside of the
shoulders with some velcro. The velcro allows you to reposition the padding easily, as well as remove them for washing the shirt.
Or you could just buy a black turtle neck shirt.
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Imperial Female Klingon Uniform
Basic Padded Vest
The ladies uniform, can be made simular to the males. of the first things you musty consider, is weither the jacket will be open or closed front. Some
folks have used a McCall's pattern #4437 , and modified it, using only the front and back pieces. Also, some have made the vest into two pieces.
Also, if you make the jacket VERY OPENED, you might want to make the "chest" armour, such as B'Etor wore.
There are several ways to accomplish this. Once is findind a bra, which looks metallic, fits well, and you wont mind showing a bit...
You can also make one, using:
- a pair of round bra fillers
- grey felt (.5 yrds)
- grey material (about 18" X 7" min.)
- a fabric thata dosen't unravel...velour works well
- fabric paint, silver and gunmetal grey, a small brush
- compass (to draw circles)
- and a neddle with dark grey or charcoal grey thread and glue.
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Measure the diameter of the bra fillers. You'll want to make the diameter of your felt circles about 1/4" larger than half of that amount...(Ex. if the
diameter of the bra fillers if 6", your felt circles will measure 3 1/4" accross.) Cut out 8 felt circles for each breastplat. Paint gunmetal grey at the
edges, and silver as you move in. Mix the paint and create an imtermediate tone between the two colors for depth. Paint following the countour of the
circle.
After they are dry, glue the circles to each bra filler in a pinwheel pattern, overlaping each other. Reinforce with stitching. Make sure you keep the
cup shape of the bra filler. Dab paint on the stitches, and any part of the bra filler that shows.
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Bra Fillers
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Attach to uniform, using the grey material, or whatever else you wish. This will also efffectively hide a regular bra. Figure out where you will be
wearing your belt. You will want the bottom hem of the TOP part of your vest to come to the bottom edge of your belt. Then a small "apron" bottom piece is
made for the lower half.
The apron, or fabric flaps, can be made in any style you choose. Look at some photos to get an idea on how you want it to look. You can either sew it
to your jacket bottom, use velcro, or sew it directly to your belt.
Now ladies, you must decide if you want to wear pants like the men do, or wear a skirt. The ladies Klingon Skirts are made similar as the vest is
made. The skirts are pannels of vinyl strips and material. You will have to adjust it to where you are able to move about comfortable. It can have just 2
slits in the front, or totaly made up of panels, layered in such a way that it is not noticible.
If you want to wear pants, you can use the same instructions as the men's pants, or you can use stretch pants
Here are some OTHER ideas and pictures from SajQa to help you with your uniform.
Boots
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The Budget version for boots is to utilize hight top boots or biker boots. You can add horns to the top, and metallic strips around the soles. You can
also extend the tops by adding an elastic cuff to the top. Let your tastes decide.
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Cloak
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Gloves
Gloves can be done by buying fingerless gloves, or taking an old pair of gloves and cut the finger tips off. to add claws, cut the blades of a plastic
throwing star and glue and/or thumbtack them on the gloves. Plastic claws will also work well.
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Armguards or Bracers
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There are many ways this can be done. A quick way is by starting with a forearm guard pad. If they are white, dye them back first. Then after they
are dry, sew black vinyl to the pad, covering it.then make 2 black tubes, made of black vynil and fill them with a stuffing material. Then sew each tube
to the the end of the pad area. You can then cut out Klingon letters from vinyl, paint them gold, and glue them to your bracers.
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Naval Insignia
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House Vampyr Insignia
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***NEW**
I have also found that using a product, callied "FOAMIES"...I have found it in the Wal-Mart craft section...it is a thin and flexable piece of foam. You
can cut out the pattern that you want, and then paint it. You can even give the pattern a 3D effect..it hold the paint well. Then, you can velcro or glue
the emblem to your gaunlets. Take a
peek
, here. Also K'Put has an EXCELLENT website for making gaunlets. The site is located at:
K'Put's Closet
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Spine
can be made from leather, plastic or metal, and riveted together so that the rivets do not show. Look at photos to decide what color you wish to
make yours. If making from leather wet the leather and using a broom handle mold the leather around the broom handle.
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Buckles
can be made from wood, stiff cardboard(not recommened), plastic or metal. Look at photos to decide what color you wish to make yours. The shape and
edge of the border, and the number of studs can also vary. Or, you can use the Klingon Symbol, like Lursa wore.
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Headpieces
Method #1 This headpiece is 2 parts. The headpiece and the hair. If you find a wig to suite your needs, you may use that...But I used loose hair,
that you can buy from various places. Here is the supply list:
- Liquid Latex (Clear)
- Optional Wig or Loose Hair
- Superglue
- Plaster
- Modeling Clay
- Scissors
- Brush
- Baby Powder
- Liquid make-up to match skin color
- White glue
- Paper strips
- A styrofoam head
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Now...you are probably wondering what in the heck the paper strips and white glue are for..{{:-)
Stryofoam head come in MANY sizes...but it is hard to find one that comes close to your own head size...especially if you have to worry about hair!
So..you are going to make a mold of your head, using paper mache' using the white glue and paper strips!!
Tie down your hair, and be sure to put some kind of bathing or swimsuit cap to cover your hair. If not..you can use celophane as a temporary cover! (This
WILL get messy)
Soak the torn stips of paper in water that you have added about 1-2 teaspoons of white glue. Starting at the bridge of the nose..gently wring the access
water from the stips of paper, and place on the face...small pieces around the eyes, nose and mouth..moving to larger pieces around the forehead, chin
and sides of the face. You want to cover from about the middle of the top of the head to at least half way down the face...I did a full mask, covering to
just under the chin...(just in case I wanted to do more later!)
After you have covered everything...you can use a blowdryer to help the mask harden. Once it is firm enough, wiggle your face until you are free from the
mask, and place it on the styrofoam face to dry completely.
Once the mask has fully dried, you can paint the mask to protect it. Now, you have a preey close cast of your face, that you can work from.
The first step is to choose a design for the ridge you want to have. Look at photographs for help. After you have chose the design, model the clay on the
mask to resemble the design. Using a modeling clay that will NOT harden is the best method. Now it also the time, if you want to make nose ridges for
yourself. They can be connected, or two seperate pieces.
Once you have a design that you like, apply the plaster to the clay sculpture and cover the design design. Make a small clay dam to contain the plaster.
The plaster should be thick. If you have a large container ie...a milk carton, you can pour the plaster into the container, and place your clay ridges
inside.
Allow the plaster to harden. Once this is done, remove the clay from the plaster, which is now a negative mold of your ridge design. Make sure you clean
it out good.
Once the plaster is dry, you can brush the latex into the mold, over the design. Use a small brush you don't mind throwing away. For a quick drying time,
use a blow dryer. Apply as many coasts of layers as wanted, but at least 5 coats and blow dry each coat. Carefully, peel the latex appliance out of the
mold and apply a light coat of baby powder to both sides of the appliance. Place apliance back on mold.
If you wish to add hair, you can either use loose hair, or an wig. I used loose straight hair, after finding a color that I liked. There are many ways to
attach the hair to the head. You can glue it, or sew it to the edges of the appliance. I cheated, and sewed the hair to a stocking cap, and then attached
the appliance to the cap also. this way, I don't have to use much glue on my head...and it is very comfortable... and I dont sweat as much.
If you wish to use the wig, cut the section from the wig where the appliance will be. Turn down the cut edge of the wig and glue to the appliance with
the superglue. Let the glue DRY COMPLETELY.
Use sprit gum or latex, to attach the headpiece to your head.
Method #2
Here is the most basic of ways to make your own "Bumpy Head". This is a VERY Basic model. If you want more details, you will need to find you a group
that can help you take a head casting, and create your headpiece.
Most headpieces are 2 parts. The headpiece, and the wig.For the headpiece, you will need:
- Liquid Latex (Flesh Colored)
- Wig
- Superglue
- Plaster
- Modeling Clay
- Scissors
- Brush
- Baby Powder
- A styrofoam head
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This is difficult to do, so do not feel discouraged, if your first attempt does not go quite right. THe first step is to choose a design for the ridge
you want to have. Look at photographs for help.After you have chose the design, model the clay on the styrofoam head to resemble the design. Using a
modeling clay that will NOT harden is the best method. Apply the plaster to the clay sculpture and cover the design design. Allow the plaster to harden.
Once this is done, remove the clay from the plaster, which is now a negaticve mold of your ridge design. make sure you clean it out good.
Brush the latex into the mold, over the design. Gor a quick drying time, use a blow dryer. Apply as many coasts of layers as wanted, but at least 5 coats
and blow dry each coat. Carefully, peel the latex appliance out of the mold and apply a light coat of baby powder to both sides of the appliance. Place
apliance back on syrofoam head.
If you wish to add the wig , cut the section from the wig where the appliance will be. Turn down the cut edge of the wig and glue to the appliance with
the superglue. Let the glue DRY COMPLETELY.
Use sprit gum or latex, to attach the headpiece to your head.
Method #3
Visit a wig shop and get a wig looking like this.
Wig
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Using
"Amazing Mold Putty"
and it is made by Alumilite Corp. in the USA Found at Michaels
All you need extra is a skin wig , a plan, and lightning sculpting abilities. NOTE: This stuff can only be worked with for about 5 minutes once the two
putty compounds are kneaded together, so I suggest very simple ridges that you can pinch with thumbs and fingers while working on it in the mirror). The
texture is like plastic while you are working with it and hardens to about the same texture as a stale gummy bear, but more durable. You can stitch
through it!
You can squeeze 2 headpieces out of one kit (I think its about $20)
Qapla!
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